Day 3: Aran Islands – Inis Mór
Morning (233km, 3h 30mins)
A trip to the Irish-speaking Aran Islands is a quintessential Ireland experience. Known for their iconic knitted jumpers, pretty thatched cottages and dramatic Atlantic Ocean backdrop, each of these islands brings its own incredible experience and a serene feeling that time is standing still. Take a passenger ferry from Rossaveal in County Galway to the largest island, Inis Mór (Inishmore), and the port village of Kilronan. From here you can begin to explore the island, with hired bikes, horse and cart, or just on your own two feet.
Inis Mór is full of spectacular beaches. Kilmurvey Beach lies in a sheltered cove, and has the calmest waters in the island. Stroll along the soft white sand or take a dip in the bracing sea. Make sure to visit the local craft shops dotted around the island. Traditional crafts from this part of the world are something unique in this age of modern mass production. Hand-knits, carved stonework and local arts and crafts are on display at the Kilmurvey Craft Village.
Lunch
Touring the Aran Islands is hungry work, so make sure you fuel up! Teach Nan Phaidi near Kilmurvey beach is a charming traditional thatched cottage that serves up delicious local food. Warm scones, hearty Guinness stew and freshly caught fish will set you up for the day and see you coming back for more.
Afternoon
Inis Mór has more than 50 different monuments from Christian, pre-Christian and Celtic eras, but for many Dún Aonghasa (the fort of Aonghas, in Irish), is the showstopper. A prehistoric hill fort perched precariously on a 100m cliff over the harsh Atlantic Ocean, Dún Aonghasa is estimated to be more than 3,000 years old. Standing here is a little like teetering on the edge of the world. And as the strong sea winds blow around you and the waves crash below, you’ll feel at one with the heartbeat of Celtic Ireland.
Another must-see ancient feature is Dún Dúchatair, also known as the Black Fort. It gets its rather ominous name from the dark colour of the limestone that characterises this part of the island. Erosion from the ocean has left the fort on a thin platform over the water so peek over the edge at your own risk!
Overnight
For good food and great music, head to Joe Watty’s Bar. The atmosphere is friendly so you can get to know your fellow travellers and the locals over a drink. Stay the night in Kilmurvey House, a stately 18th century guesthouse with lashings of vintage charm and an idyllic beachside location.