Day 1
Distance: Approximately 127km
Morning
Along the coastline of County Kerry, Tralee is known internationally because of its Rose of Tralee festival. When not in festival time, this is a busy market town with good pubs and restaurants, and the National Folk Theatre of Ireland, Siamse Tíre, which stages Irish music and dance performances. A little known treasure is the traditional Blennerville Windmill in Tralee Bay. It’s the tallest of its kind in Europe, and is open to visit from April to October. Group rates are available and the tour is insightful and interesting; the windmill has been described as “an absolute must-stop” on TripAdvisor.
As the road skirts around the Dingle Peninsula, the scenery piles on the drama with Mount Bandon providing an impressive backdrop to a coastline of crags, crashing waves and cottages. Here, the Slea Head Drive brings you to the tip of the peninsula, passing the stunning Coumeenoole Beach (option to stop at The Stonehouse Restaurant in Ventry for mid-morning refreshments), and onto Dunquin Harbour with its much-photographed switchback road.
Dunquin is both a viewing point and a departure point for a trip to the Blasket Islands (optional), which have been deserted since 1953. In the Blasket Centre in Dunquin, the islands’ story is told in detail. Guided tours are available for groups, with a maximum of 40 per group.
Lunch
Stop at the Louis Mulcahy Café, Ballyferriter, for a lunch of local favourites, and a browse around the pottery shop.
Afternoon
On the road to Dingle, in a jaw-dropping spot overlooking the water, sits Gallarus Oratory. Built between the 7th and 8th century, it’s the best preserved church of its era in Ireland and is made entirely of stone. Coach and car parking is available, and the oratory is open all year (note, the visitor centre is only open in the summer months).
Dingle is a town of immense charm with traditional grocery-pubs, colourful shop fronts, an arty atmosphere and a very famous resident, Fungie the dolphin. There are countless boat trips available to see Fungie who has lived in the seas off Dingle for years.
Back in town, Dingle thrums with great pubs such as Foxy John’s and Dick Mack’s, excellent restaurants such as The Chart House and live Irish music sessions for visitors to enjoy at their leisure.
Evening
Overnight at the Dingle Bay Hotel in town.
Day 2
Distance: Approximately 150km
Morning
One of the finest beaches in the southwest, Inch stretches out with seemingly endless sands backed by undulating dunes. A walk here definitely blows away the cobwebs before hitting the next peninsula, Iveragh – famous for its driving route, the Ring of Kerry. Passing through the towns of Killorglin, Glenbeigh and Cahirciveen, the route detours off the main Ring of Kerry to the Skellig Ring, and on to Valentia Island – linked to the mainland by bridge. Stop at the main town of the island, Knightstown, to enjoy the ambiance before heading to Geokaun Mountain and Fogher Cliffs with astonishing 360o views. The Skellig Experience Visitor Centre near the bridge to Portmagee is a great way of getting the experience of the 6th century monastic village on Skellig Michael while remaining on land. It’s a must for Star Wars fans who were wowed by the sight of the island in Star Wars: The Force Awakens, and are hoping to discover more about this extraordinary place.
Lunch
Stop for lunch at Mannings in Portmagee.
Optional Boat trip to Skelligs: Boats to the 6th century monastic site of the Skellig Michael leave at 9:30am in the morning and return around 2pm. Check local operators for details. For those wishing to avail of the trip, advance booking is essential and an overnight stay in Portmagee is advised. All trips are weather dependent.
Afternoon
Less well known than the Cliffs of Moher, the Kerry Cliffs have a similarly wild feel and are the nearest viewing point to the Skellig Islands and Puffin Island. It’s a ten-minute walk from the car park to the viewing point and there is a coffee shop on site. A small charge applies.
The small, family-run Skelligs Chocolate in Ballinskelligs doesn’t have a specific tour but visitors are allowed to watch the chocolates being made, ask questions and have a taste. The Puffin Café on site is a “treats-only” café serving hot chocolate, cakes and desserts; there is also a gift shop.
Evening
Stop overnight in the Butler Arms Hotel Waterville. The village is famous for being Charlie Chaplin’s favourite retreat.